Have you ever found your favorite pattern but to see it isn’t your size?
This unfortunate dilemma sounds somewhat familiar to many of us. Even so, the pattern is supposedly in your size, however, it still fits slightly big or small, pattern grading is the solution you need.
There are many different approaches to pattern grading, some approaches are specialized to make a garment a specific fit. It isn’t unsurprising that pattern grading is avoided by most. The excess of numbers, calculations, and long methods can seem overwhelming. The initial idea of pattern grading can seem somewhat like a headache.
The first idea to understand with pattern grading is even grading. What does “evenly graded” mean? It means the measurements at a point between sizes are the same. For example, at the waist, each measurement could be 2cm larger than the previous size. Even grading also considers that the change in width doesn’t necessarily mean a change in height. For example, if the waist increases 2cm per size the neck to waist measurement might only increase by 0.25cm.
Most current women’s patterns are evenly graded. However, it is common to need to grade a pattern. The first step to grading your pattern is determining how many sizes you need to go up or down. This can be done by using a sizing chart and comparing it with the measurements you desire.
One method which can then be applied to evenly graded patterns is by using the corner points. By then measuring between each size along the line, finding the difference between a size. Using more lines extended through the pattern will give a more accurate outcome, on each line you would repeat the method.
It is slightly more complex when working with the uneven pattern grading. Uneven grading is when the pattern and body measurements are not proportionate. There are several methods to approach an uneven grade. Firstly, if sizing down use a grade equal to the smallest difference, and if sizing up use a grade equal to the largest difference. Applying an even grade with this method will reduce the number of alterations needed to make a fitted garment. A similar approach is to separate the pattern into two, commonly into a top and bottom pattern. The separate patterns are then graded evenly. The final method deals with height or width, but not both at the same time. This is done by grading the circumference for the width or grading the length for the height. If grading the width using the circumference the length grading is ignored, again, this is reversed when grading the length.
Pattern grading can seem intimidating at the beginning, however, with these basic approaches the process can expand your sewing experience.