An in depth guide from NDN.LASER for anyone living with faded brow powder, migrated eyeliner or a lip blush that has shifted in tone and who wants a clean slate. Ten or fifteen years ago, choosing permanent makeup likely felt like the end of pencils and daily touch ups. Yet today you may see green grey brows or a purple lip liner in the mirror. In those cases, PMU verwijderen comes into play. It breaks down old pigments safely and makes room for a fresh, subtler look. The technique works very well, but it must be matched carefully to the chemistry, the depth and the color shift of aging ink.
Pigment formulas have evolved, and that matters
Up to about 2013 many PMU artists used iron and titanium compounds that shifted toward orange or blue under UV light. Later, organic azo dyes became popular. They are brighter but harder to break because they contain less metal. During PMU removal, the specialist needs to know whether your artist used mineral or carbon based pigment at the time. Each type calls for a different wavelength and pulse density to fragment safely.
Color correction starts with the right laser mix
A 1,064 nm Nd:YAG beam targets black and blue, but leaves most orange and green untouched. That is why NDN.LASER pairs at least two wavelengths for PMU removal: 1,064 nm for dark lines and 532 nm or 585 nm for warmer tones. Thanks to picosecond technology, energy is delivered in very short pulses, which keeps heat load low and protects the thin skin around the eyes or lips.
Depth and needle technique then versus now
Older PMU was often placed deep in the dermis with machine needles borrowed from tattoo practice. Modern nano needles place pigment more superficially. These historical depth differences explain why older pigments can respond slower. They sit farther from the laser’s focal energy. During PMU removal you may see the top layer already light while a grey shadow still shows through. Additional sessions and a careful fluence ramp are the best strategy.
Skin undertone and metabolism play a role
Cool skin with a bluish undertone absorbs light differently than warm skin with yellow undertones. Warm skin absorbs red light faster, so laser settings must be calibrated accordingly. Your lymphatic system matters too. If you smoke or drink little water, your body clears fragmented pigment more slowly. During PMU removal you will receive lifestyle advice more hydration and less nicotine to speed up your natural clean up process.
Sensitive zones need special precautions
Brows lie above bony eye sockets, lips are rich in nerve endings and eyeliner sits close to the cornea. NDN.LASER uses surgical steel eye shields and a fume extractor to remove pigment plume immediately. This keeps treatment comfortable and safe. Clients rate pain with our cooled handpieces at an average of 3 out of 10, clearly lower than waxing or microblading.
The only list: Five practical steps for a successful treatment
1. Pre assessment: skin scan, pigment analysis and a test pulse at two fluences.
2. Pre care: no self-tan or sunbed for 14 days, light shave or gentle scrub 24 hours before.
3. Treatment protocol: combined pico wavelengths, contact cooling and medical eye protection.
4. Aftercare: silicone gel, no makeup for 48 hours, SPF 50 for two weeks.
5. Lifestyle: 2 liters of water daily, do not smoke, sleep well to support lymphatic drainage.
(This is the only list in this blog so the text stays personal and flowing.)
Technique makes the difference between pain and comfort
A cryo system sprays a fine layer of cold gas milliseconds before the laser pulse. With that instant cooling you feel a brief elastic snap rather than a burning wave. In post-treatment surveys, 87 percent of our clients say the pain was less than expected and they did not need numbing cream.
Client case: Monique and her failing microblading
Monique, 45, had ten year old microblading that had faded into greenish strokes. After six pico sessions with a staged energy build up, the color reduced to a light grey haze. A new artist could then place powder brows without color correction. Monique stresses that strict aftercare cold sleeping, SPF 50, zero alcohol was crucial. Her story shows how PMU removal offers a clean canvas and sets the base for a brand-new design.
Cost versus value in real numbers
An eyebrow course at NDN.LASER averages five sessions at €110 each. Aftercare products and two checkups are included. Many compare this to a cheap “laser shot” of €60 elsewhere, but forget that test pulse, cooling and aftercare cream are billed separately. Looking at the full picture, professional PMU removal can be more cost-effective, especially because fewer sessions are needed thanks to more efficient pulse delivery.
Aftercare: prevention beats cure
Cool in the first hour, use fragrance free lotion for two days and avoid the sun. That is all you need to reduce redness quickly. We do notice that skipping these basics often slows fading. With poor aftercare, leftover pigment can bind again in micro-scars.
Common misconceptions, cleared up
“Three sessions and everything is gone” is a marketing myth. Four to eight rounds is realistic on average, depending on color and depth. Another myth is that “laser destroys hair follicles.” The wavelengths for PMU removal are tuned to pigment, not to melanin in hair roots. Brow hairs remain intact, provided fluence is set correctly.
Psychological impact: Confidence as a bonus
Old, discolored makeup can make people self conscious, especially in close up conversations. After the course we see clients take selfies more freely and feel comfortable wearing lipstick or brow gel again. That emotional dividend lasts longer than the technical side of treatment, which makes the decision to remove PMU even more valuable.
Future proofing: Less risk of color shifts
New EU pigment rules now ban harmful metal oxides. Once your skin is clear, an artist can place modern, stable shades that are less likely to drift toward blue or pink. A one time, well done PMU removal creates a lasting canvas for safer, better ink formulas.
Conclusion: Everything starts with a thorough first consult
Old pigment formulas, skin type, location and lifestyle are all puzzle pieces that determine how much time and energy are needed. A detailed intake including ultrasound scan and test pulse gives clarity and prevents disappointment. At NDN.LASER that preparation is included. Book a no-obligation consult and learn exactly how PMU removal can bring you closer to a fresh, natural look without surprises in pain, price or aftercare.Discover how NDN.LASER can support you with customized solutions.”
