Putting Spare Sockets to a room or any wall (surface-mounted)

If you’re perpetually using tracking sockets or adapters to run your electric contraption in a specific room, then it’s time to look at adding spare wall sockets.

In many instances it’s a comparatively simple job to do this, and – at the time of writing – you don’t necessity to inform the job to the council under Building Standards, as long as you’re putting the sockets to an existent radial circuit, ring route or goad and not directly to the user unit.

NB – There is an essential exclusion to this!

. The activity carried out in a kitchen, bathroom, or outsides essential EVER be informed.

. The simple sockets allowed in a bathroom are reduced-power ones for electric shaving, and there are rigorous modulations as to where they were perhaps placed.

.We powerfully advise against undertaking your electrical work in whatever of these places.

You can select two primary modes of mounting your new socket. 

surface-mounted or flush-mounted.

.Flush-mounted sockets

Flush-mounted sockets are a little more slippery than ones because you’ve got to cut away the region of the wall to set the metallic mounting box inside. But they looked much tidier. You can see how to do it in our section on mounting flush-mounted sockets.

.Surface-mounted sockets

surface mounted wall sockets are easy to install; you just take the fictile box and prison guard it to the wall using screws and wall stopper The liability is that they stick out into the room a spot – which can be awkward if, say, you’re preparation to install them over a worktop where location perhaps at a superior.

Only knock out the fixing gaps in the back of the fictile box, then clasp the box up quadrate against the wall and create a symbol on the wall through all holes. Drill space and plug them with No wall plugs. Break off the part of the plastic cover the cable start hole you’re preparing for usage (the one in the back if the cable’s inhumed in the wall, one in the side if it’s above ground-run). Pushing a cringle of the cable of about 75mm (3″) length into the box, now fit the box to the wall using countersunk wood screws. Eventually, a finish line socket (see beneath).

Wiring and fitting the socket

This is unequivocal. You’ll need to use a new-way wiring cable with a brownish insulated live wire and a bluish insulated neutral wire. The naked wire in the midway of the cable is the globe wire; you should change this yourself with the right green-and-yellow sleeving.

Spare Sockets - Mark Harrod Ltd.

The brownish wire goes into the hole well-marked “L”; the bluish wire goes into the 1 symbolize “N”, and the ground wire goes into the one well-marked with the letter “E” and/or the earth sign. Strip off just adequate insularity to assure that a connection is made; if you part away enough, then either snipping the wire abbreviated or fold it back on itself. Make sure the endmost screws are binding.

You may have to crook the single wires (which are rather stiff) to permit the faceplate of the cavity to close. When you’ve through that, tighten all repair screws bit by bit until the face plate is firmly fixed to the wall or the box.

Once you’ve through that, you’ll be prepared to connect your socket to the main