Mens makeup has come a long way since you surreptitiously borrowed a dab of your sister’s concealer to cover a zit. Today, you can get cosmetics specifically engineered for a guy’s skin because – guess what? – men get those spots just before a date, too. And the dark circles because we thought one more drink wouldn’t kill us. And the creases in the skin after working a 50-hour week.
The big difference in male makeup from female, or the crazy, contoured artistry you might see on RuPaul’s Drag Race, is that this makeup is designed to be invisible. It’s more like grooming 2.0, a subtle evolutionary step from your daily moisturizer that slaps an Instagram filter on your face in real life.
Debate what it means for masculinity if you like. We’re not going to. We don’t think it’s really a revolution, or feminization gone berserk. It’s just an option – one you can take or leave as you see fit to fine-tune your appearance. And if you do, below you’ll find everything you need to know about the products to get expert advice on how best to use them.
HOW MALE MAKEUP BECAME A THING
One in five men of men said they now use make-up, according to a survey for grooming brand Wahl. So, who’s slapping it on? Millennials aged 25-34 are the age group who tend to use it most, with 39 percent saying they use make-up – that’s more than a third of blokes on the street.
Unsurprisingly, cosmetic brands have been quick to jump on the growing trend for male makeup, part of a grooming industry worth $57.7bn (£43.6bn) in 2018 and expected to top $78.6bn (£59.5bn) by 2023. Boy de Chanel and Tom Ford for Men are two recent designer launches that are flying off the shelves and into men’s weekend bags and office drawers, but budget options are increasingly available too.
“More and more products are being launched with men as their specific target,” says make-up artist Kenneth Soh who has groomed the faces of Richard Madden, Hugh Laurie, and Martin Freeman. “Brands are now doing skincare and light cosmetic products that are branded and packaged for men and take away the stigma of guys wanting to use products on themselves.”
Despite becoming a zeitgeisty talking point recently, makeup for men is nothing new. As far back as ancient Egypt, kings, and pharaohs blackened their eyes with kohl (sort of the OG eyeliner) to ward off evil spirits, a practice that eventually reached Native American tribes who used body paint to prepare for war psychologically. Male beautification remained prevalent even up until the 1600s when it was common for Englishmen to sport powdered faces as well as rouged cheeks and lips.
MUST HAVE MEN’S MAKEUP PRODUCTS
You don’t need a wash bag packed with products for a bit of subtle male makeup. Here are seven key pieces that comprise the ultimate kit for guys that want believable, no-bullshit cosmetics.
1. PRIMER
Even if you’re no oil painter, you still need a good canvas to work with. A primer prepares the skin for everything else that follows, allowing it to go on easier and last longer. It’s not an essential step, so can be skipped in a pinch, but the right formulation can also have additional benefits, like controlling oiliness or hydrating dryness. A double-skin win.
2. BB / CC CREAM
The bloke’s more accessible alternative to foundation, BB, and CC creams are essentially part moisturizer and part make-up, meaning they’re great at achieving a natural but healthy-looking complexion. BB stands for blemish balm and is ideal for spot-prone skin or those in need of a little color boost. CC stands for color correcting and provides light coverage while also reducing the appearance of redness or age spots.
3. CONCEALER
Pre-date breakout? Boardroom presentation on three hours’ sleep? This is where concealer comes in. Often a guy’s first dabble with men’s makeup (usually stolen from a sister or girlfriend), this miracle invention is similar to foundation, but is thicker and comes in a stick or liquid wand form (the former being far less messy). It works by blending imperfections into the surrounding skin, so use it for hiding under-eye shadows, spot coverage, or a death-by-hangover day.
4. BLOTTING SHEETS
No one wants a shiny schnoz, which is why most women use pressed or loose powder to keep excess oil at bay. However, men typically have larger pores, which can make this appear obvious. Blotting sheets sort the oil slick without leaving a layer of cakey product on your skin. They’re small enough to keep in your wallet, so they’re ideal for touching up on the go.
5. BROW GEL
Men’s eyebrows tend to be fuller and hairier than women’s, which means they need maintenance. After all, if your eyes are the windows to your soul, then your eyebrows are the curtains. Brow gel, fix, or definer – they have multiple names, but basically, they all do the same thing. Stick to clear formulations and use sparingly (with the included brush) to keep unruly arches in check.