How to Install Tile?

A Comprehensive Guide to Flooring Installation

So you’re interested in learning how to tile? Great! While this is not a comprehensive tutorial, it does provide an overview of the procedure from start to finish. You should have a decent idea of what equipment and supplies you’ll need after reading this, as well as an overview of the entire process, from planning to grouting.

You’ll notice that we refer you to the manufacturer’s suggestions for your specific product or to a store employee at times throughout this guide. This is due to the large range of products and materials available, each with its own set of standards. Our Dublin tiling experts are the most knowledgeable about the products, so they are always a good resource to point you in the proper direction and to the building codes in your area.

Tools and materials

Make sure you have all of the equipment and materials you’ll need for each phase of your installation by using our handy installation checklist. The following are the fundamental items you’ll need to install tile.

• Underlayment is a layer of material that is placed on top of a substrate to prepare it for tiling. The ground, whether constructed of plywood or cement, is the substrate (or subfloor).
  • The most common underlayments are cement board or backer board. They are available in a variety of thicknesses to fit various spaces. For this type of underlayment, you’ll need to tape the joints.
  • A membrane is a fibreglass composite material that is used to prevent deflection (floor bending and flexing) and decoupling (separation or sliding of a joint). For this type of underlayment, you’ll need to tape the joints.
  • For wet locations, waterproof underlayments are required. A paint-on coating, a membrane, or a waterproofing backer board are your alternatives. For this type of underlayment, you’ll need to tape the joints.
  • To help level an uneven floor or protect heating lines, self-leveling cement may be required. A primer and cement are used in this product.
  • Portland cement and sand are combined to make mudset.
• Adhesives
  • Epoxy is a grout and an adhesive. Stone with a resin backing is adhered with this glue.
  • Thinset refers to both cement and thinset mortar. Sand, Portland cement, and water are combined to make cement mortar. Portland cement, fine sand, and a water-retaining ingredient or activator make up thinset mortar. To get the optimum thinset for your space, consult our thinset recommendation chart.
  • Premixed adhesives save time by eliminating the need for measuring and mixing, but they may have restrictions in terms of how and where they can be used. Before you install your tile, make sure you read the label completely.
  • Mastic is a ready-to-use glue that must be utilised in dry conditions. If it becomes wet, the product will not fully cure and will release. Because it is easy to use and premixed, this is a good do-it-yourself alternative.
• The amount of grout required is determined on the type of tile and the available space.
  • Epoxy is a grout and an adhesive. Stone with a resin backing is adhered with this glue.
  • Sanded grout is a foundation adhesive for many tiles and contains minute sand particles.
  • Unsanded grout is used with glass, polished stone, and smaller grout joints since it does not include sand particles.
  • Although Excel grout contains sand, the smaller aggregate allows it to be used in smaller grout joints.
  • There are also premixed and single-component grouts available. These take the place of having to create your own grout.
• It is possible to use a sealer or not. Check to see if you need to seal your tile or grout.
  • Sealants for stones
    • Natural sealers provide the appearance of being dry.
    • Enhance and seal for a moist appearance.
  • Sealants for grout
• Tools
  • The size of the tile plays a big role in choosing the proper trowel. Use this list to determine which trowel size and shape is ideal for your project.
    • A tiler’s best friend, also known as a margin trowel, is a highly helpful item to have. It can be used for mixing, cleaning, squeezing out grout lines, and checking coverage by removing a tile from thinset.
  • float about (for grouting)
  • Cutting instrument (either a wet saw or a scoring snap cutter)
  • Choose from wedges, T-spacers, or levelling spacers depending on the size of your room.
  • Buckets
  • Sponges
  • Tape
  • Knife (utility)
  • Talk to your store associate for a complete list of tools and materials, as well as recommendations.

Before you start

Before you begin tiling, make sure you have the proper surface. Consider the height of your present subfloor and the height of the adjacent floor. This will assist you in deciding which underlayment to use and narrowing down your options. This is also the time to consider whether you want to install heating beneath your tiles. You can choose the best underlayment for your room once you’ve considered all of these aspects. Before you install your underlayment, make sure the floor is clean, dry, cleaned, vacuumed, and dust-free.

Layout considerations

Measure twice and cut once, as the adage goes. Taking the effort to prepare your layout before you begin will always be worthwhile in the long run and will improve the appearance of your installation.

Once you have all of the necessary equipment and supplies, you can begin planning the arrangement of your design. This is crucial because it’s difficult to go back and rethink the plan once you’ve started putting tile.

To begin, locate the room’s centre. The most straightforward method is to take the length of one wall and divide it in half. Then take the opposite wall’s measurement and divide it in half. Draw a line connecting the two centre spots on the floor. Repeat with the other two walls, then draw a line between them. At the centre of the room, two lines intersect. Begin by dry-laying a row of tiles (including spacers) out in one direction from the centre point. Make sure you don’t have a sliver cut (defined as less than half of a tile) at the end. If you’re going to wind up with less than a half-tile, modify the layout beginning point. The tile does not have to begin in the precise centre of the room just because you start arranging the arrangement from the centre. To ensure there are no sliver cuts in the direction 90 degrees from the last row, repeat the process. Consider any design features you wish to utilise in this step, such as diagonal tiles, a unique pattern, or a tiled border.

Now that you know how your layout will look, map out the order in which you will tile around the room, quadrant by quadrant, so you don’t wind up in front of a door. If you’re tiling both walls and floors, start with the floors so that your wall tile overlaps and sits on top of the floor tile. Water will run onto the floor tile rather than into the grout joint or under the tile as a result of this.

INSTALLATION

Now comes the thrilling part! Continue reading to learn about all of the necessary processes of installation as well as our expert advice on how to make it all go well.

You’ve chosen your tile and gathered all of the required equipment and ingredients. The installation step is where everything comes together and your lovely design takes shape. To secure the greatest possible results, plan ahead, just like the rest of the procedure. Before you begin, we urge that you read through all of these steps. We’ll go over thinset mixing and application, tile installation, and finishing touches like as grouting, sealing, and caulking.

THINSET MIXING

This step is more crucial than it appears. A good installation depends on getting the appropriate consistency and timing for your thinset.

It’s critical to understand the open time and cure durations before mixing and laying thinset. The amount of time you have to work with your thinset before it hardens is called open time. This is referred to as “bucket life.” This can take anywhere from 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the type of thinset, temperature, humidity, and other factors. The finger test can be used to see if your thinset is still open. If you dip your finger into the thinset bucket and it comes out clean, it’s no longer tacky enough to adhere to your tile or underlayment. When the thinset has reached the end of its open period, it must be discarded, the bucket cleaned, and a fresh batch started. “Cure time” refers to how long thinset takes to fully set up after installation. Cure times should be determined by the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Thinning Mixing Procedures

• Begin by pouring your liquid into your bucket. For the liquid-to-powder ratio, consult the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Add powder in tiny amounts to avoid clumps and bubbles from unmixed powder.
• Add just enough powder to get the right consistency.
• We usually aim for a peanut butter-like texture. If you can scoop the thinset up with your trowel, turn it on its side, and leave it for a few seconds before it falls into the bucket, it’s the right consistency.
• Once you’ve achieved the desired consistency, let the thinset slake for 5–10 minutes (as recommended by the manufacturer). Allowing the thinset to sit in the bucket to activate the chemicals and generate crystals is known as slaking. This step is essential for proper adherence.
• Check the consistency of the thinset by remixing it briefly.
• Before you know how fast you’ll be working owing to the open time, mix a little amount of thinset (see below).
• Never pour thinset down the drain when cleaning!
• This will cause your pipes to clog

THINSET LAYING

Thinset is in charge of keeping your tile fixed to your floor, so be sure it’s done correctly! We’ll walk you through each stage and share our years of experience.

When your thinset is ready, use your notched trowel to apply it to the substrate or underlayment. You should additionally back butter large-format tiles by applying thinset directly to the back of the tile. Grooves will be left on the substrate and/or tile by your notched trowel. To produce a consistent mortar bed beneath the tile, make sure they’re all going in the same direction. Hold the trowel at a 45° angle as you spread the thinset to get a thick enough layer.

TILE INSTALLATION

It’s time to tile after all of your planning, mixing, and thinset mixing has paid off. Read the tips in this part to ensure that your project will last for years.

It’s time to start tiling! Apply firm, even pressure when placing a tile in thinset. Allow the ridges in the thinset to break down and fill in the valleys by wriggling the tile back and forth. This forms a solid thinset layer beneath the tile. After you’ve finished with your first tile, lift it back up and inspect it for 80–90 percent thinset coverage on the back. If there isn’t, double-check the consistency of the thinset and make sure you’re using the right size trowel at the right angle.

Remember to utilise spacers between tiles to keep the gap and grout lines consistent throughout the installation. After the thinset has dried, the spacers should be able to be removed. As you go, make sure to clear away any excess thinset on the tiles and in between them. When it’s wet, it’s much easier to clean up. If you take a break from tiling, make sure to wipe up any thinset on the floor that isn’t tiled. Allowing it to dry can result in an uneven surface. To avoid thinset and grout cake-up, make sure to clean all of your tools at the end of each day. Remember not to rinse any thinset or pour it down the drain!

MEASUREMENT AND CUTTING GUIDELINES

• As you get closer to the room’s perimeter, you’ll need to start trimming tiles to fit. You have two options for accomplishing this. The initial step is to tile as much as possible with entire tiles, saving all cuts for the end, and allowing the floor to cure. You can walk on the floor while installing the edge tiles this way. Alternatively, you can cut and insert edge tiles as you go.
• Before walking on your tile or grouting, check the manufacturer’s recommended cure time.
• Before you cut, measure the space you need the tile to fit into and remember to account for the grout joint.
• You should leave at least an eighth of an inch between the tile and the wall to allow for any natural expansion, contraction, or moving of the home. This area is frequently caulked and covered with wall tile or trim.

GROUTING

Grout serves as more than just a decorative border between tiles. It’s crucial because it binds your tiles together and prevents them from breaking or chipping as your house shifts.

PREPARE FOR GROUTING

Clean any extra thinset squeezed out and into the grout joints to prepare the space for grouting. Cleaning the grout joints is best done with a utility knife. Replace your water bucket on a frequent basis, work with clean water, and utilise an almost dry sponge. Remove your spacers after that. Applying a grout release to a man-made tile, such as glass, ceramic, or porcelain, is a smart idea right now. This keeps the grout from adhering unduly to the tile’s surface. We also recommend using a stone sealant before grouting if you’re using natural stone or encaustic cement tiles. You can apply a grout release after this step if your stone is exceptionally strongly textured.

For mixing your specific grout, consult the manufacturer’s instructions. Because certain grouts come pre-mixed, this step may not be essential. To begin, fill the bucket with liquid. To avoid clumping, add the powder in portions. More liquid can typically be added, but you’ll run out of powder first, so start with small amounts. To avoid streaking, thoroughly mix to ensure that all grout pigment is uniformly mixed. Allow the grout mixture to slake according to the manufacturer’s instructions before applying it. As with the thinset process, keep open time and cure times in mind.

Clean up as you go with a bucket of water and a sponge. Use a grout float to start applying the grout. A grout float is a spatula-like flat rubber or silicone instrument with a flexible edge. Hold it at a 45-degree angle and approach the grout line diagonally. When grout is applied parallel to the joint, it tends to draw the grout out rather than pushing it in. Make sure the joint is thoroughly filled in from top to bottom. Depending on the type of grout, temperature, and other circumstances, we propose alternating grouting and cleaning and going back and forth every 10–30 minutes. That is why determining the open time is critical. When cleaning up, be careful not to use too much water, since this might leech the pigment out of the grout and lighten the colour. Reduce the amount of grout left on the tile. Grouting only the joints of a large-format tile is easier, whereas a small mosaic must be almost completely covered to fill in all of the joints.

A grout haze will most likely form on the surface of the tiles once you’ve done grouting. This is a regular amount of grout on the surface. Allow for a few hours for the grout to set before removing the haze with an approved grout haze remover and a dry or almost dry sponge or towel. To avoid removing grout from the joint, approach the grout line on a slant. The next step is to make your grout line. This entails pulling across the grout with an almost dry sponge and smoothing it. Make careful to apply light pressure to the sponge’s corner and the tip of your finger. Because water will smear the grout, make sure the sponge is almost completely dry. Replace filthy water with clean water on a frequent basis, especially if there is a lot of grout haze. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for curing time.

SEALING

Sealers can improve the appearance of your tile or grout in addition to protecting it. Give your installation a matte or shine finish and make sure it will last.

If your grout needs to be sealed, do it when it has fully dried. If you’re not sure if your grout needs to be sealed, ask your store associate. To avoid a filmy residue after sealing man-made tile, wipe excess sealer off with a dry rag.

CAULKING

Caulk is used to seal joints between tiles, walls, worktops, and bathroom accessories, making them robust and watertight.

All 90-degree tile joints, whether between tile and wall, tile and counter, or two walls, should be caulked. Ask a store associate to propose the appropriate caulk and application method for your project because there are many different varieties.

INSTALLATION QUESTIONS

Are you able to provide installation services?

No, but your local The Style Bathrooms tile installer can provide you with a list of independent Pro Network partners and local trade specialists who can help you with tile and stone installation. The Style Bathrooms, on the other hand, does not guarantee these installations or the accuracy of any information provided by the installers, and has no responsibility for the installation’s quality or timeliness, or any mistakes or omissions in the information provided. The Style Bathrooms is not liable for any damages that occur as a result of an installation or information regarding an installation.

How long does tile installation take?

Each tile project is unique and will be determined by several factors, including the product utilised, the space where the product will be installed, and the amount of time spent on preparation and layout.

Should I order more supplies?

To facilitate cuts and repairs, it is recommended to order 10% to 15% extra goods based on pattern designs. Because tile availability and styles change frequently, keeping an extra box or two on hand is highly suggested.

When laying tile in different designs, do I need more material?

The larger the proportion of overage that should be considered, the more complex your pattern becomes. To figure out how much material you’ll need for your project, speak with a Style Bathrooms representative or your tile installer.

What are the safety precautions I should take when installing tile?

Prior to installation, tile can be heavy; employ proper lifting procedures to avoid injury. When cutting tile, Style Bathrooms recommends wearing safety goggles and other protective gear.

How do I know how much thinset and grout to use?

When choosing a grout joint, there are several factors to consider. Among them include, but are not limited to:

• appearance
• Maintenance
• Traffic
• Finish/Edges
• material

What is the difference between sanded and unsanded grout, and how do I know which to use?

Silica sand is the difference between sanded and unsanded grout. Sand acts as a filler and adds strength to grout joints bigger than 1/8 inch in diameter. Grout joints of 1/8 inch or less require unsanded grout. The grout you use will be determined by the width of your grout joint. In 1/8 grout joints, both sanded and unsanded grout will function. Grout and finishing recommendations may vary depending on the material, such as polished marble, travertine, or glass.

With my tile, what colour grout should I use?

Grouting is just as personal as choosing your tile. We can provide recommendations based on what’s popular, but we strongly advise you to choose the colour that’s perfect for you and your design goal.

How long should I wait for the floor tile to set before stepping on it or using the space where it was installed?

The time it takes for thinset, mastic, and floor mix to cure depends on a number of factors. Before allowing traffic on any newly placed tile, we recommend waiting 24 hours.

When removing old tile, what steps should I take?

Every demolition project is different. Before attempting to remove any old surfaces, check with your local city codes. Depending on the substance, additional safety precautions may be required. Safety glasses and other protective gear are always recommended.

What if I break a tile during the installation process?

If you have any breakage or need chopped parts during your installation, Style Bathrooms recommends buying 10-15 percent extra merchandise.

TIME BUSINESS NEWS